Paul In Antarctica 2009/10

Home
Antarctica
McMurdo
Getting Hired
Science
Journal-Sept
Journal-Oct
Journal-Nov
Journal-Dec
Journal-Jan
Journal-Feb
Contact Me
Journal-November

Nov 24
      The big news here is still snow. Over the last 2 weeks we have had lots of it.  The heavy equipment operators estimate they have removed more than 10,000 cubic yards of snow from the air field in the last week and a half. The upside to all this snow is that it has been warm. Our highs have been in the mid 20's and that feels like a heat wave down here.  Two nights ago I was able to work for several hours outside in just my shirtsleeves. Last Sat evening a group of us headed out to visit the nearby ice cave. The weather was sketchy enough that we towed a sled of survival equipment behind  the heavy truck called a Delta.

delta.JPG
Our Delta towing a sled of survival gear

During our hour long drive over the sea ice to the ice cave it snowed heavily. When we arrived at the cave the opening had snowed shut and we had to dig it open.  After reopening the cave we had to crawl down a very tight hole into the cavern.

Dig.JPG
Digging out the opeing to the ice cave

tight.JPG
A tight squeeze

Once my eyes adjusted to the darkness inside the cave the sight was just amazing. There were ice crystals hanging from the walls and ceiling. With the flash of my camera the ice looks white but without the flash everything was a deep blue . These photos do not do it justice.

cave1.JPG

ice2.JPG

blue.JPG
This is the true color inside the ice cave

While we had been in the cave the snow had continued to fall heavily. We had intended to drive on to visit Cape Evans. That is the hut where Robert Scott's 1912 South Pole Expedition lived . Unluckily the snow was just too deep even for the Delta and we had to head back to McMurdo. Along the way we got stuck several times and had to dig ourselves out.

stuck1.JPG
Digging out the Delta from being stuck

We were able to make it back to McMurdo safely and although we were hungry and tired everyone enjoyed the trip.
      The other news is that we finally had a few flights make it into WAIS with cargo including frozen turkeys and the fixings for their Thanksgiving dinner. They have had far worse weather than we  and I am sure they appreciated getting the food. We are still way behind on cargo for them though.  Along with the warmer weather here the sea ice runway is getting very soft. Two days ago a crack developed right where we park the C-17 when it lands. It is time to be moving to Pegasus Air Field on the permanent ice shelf. The move will start next week end and take about 3 or 4 days. The thinner , softer sea ice has made it easier for Weddell Seals to come through. Two days ago there was one laying right in the ice roadway when I was getting off shift. I will post his photo when I am off for Thanksgiving.

Nov 18
     The big news this week is snow and lots of it. We had a powerful 3 day storm that has caused us all sorts of trouble. Since Antarctica is a desert we do not get tons of snow but the snow on the ground blows and blows and drifts really grow. During the storm we had winds right at 50 MPH for almost 3 straight days. Our internet and phone service was affected. The sea ice air field was shut down and no one was allowed out there for over 48 hours. I was lucky enough to get out there right after a road was plowed and was amazed at the drifts. Here are some photos of what we found.  This is one of the Cat Chassis that I photo'd earlier. It is sitting on a 45 inch high loading sled.

snowycatchassis.JPG
Cat chassis after the storm

This is a drift that developed out side the door of my dorm.

bigdrift.JPG
This drift grew in one afternoon

Here are more photos of the snow out at the sea ice air field. It is a monumental task to get everything dug out and flying again.

c130snow.JPG
C-130s drifted in

snowbasler.JPG

Here is my Movement Control Specialist ( MC1)  LaDon Danials sitting on top of a loading sled for the C-17. It is 62 inches high.

C17sled.JPG
We had 3 C-17 and 4 C-130 sleds to dig out

Just before the storm hit the ancient snowmobile that I had was relaced with a John Deere Gator. I was worried  about it during the storm but it came through just fine. It is not as fun as a snowmobile but much warmer. I call it my clown car because it is very tiny inside. It sure  is better than walking  miles from one end of our air strip to the other.

clowncar.JPG
My clown car

What amazes me is that within 36 hours of the storm ending we had the air field open with flights arriving from New Zealand and flights going to the south Pole. We still have tons of snow to remove and lots of cargo and equipment to uncover but we have a functional air field once again.  In 2 weeks the sea ice will be too unstable to land planes on and we will move to Pegasus Air Field built on a permanent ice shelf about an hours drive  from McMurdo.  My commute is going to get a lot worse shortly. By the way. The weather at WAIS is still been horrible and no flights have made it in there. We may never get caught up with WAIS cargo  this season.



twilight.JPG
Sea Ice Air Field and the Royal Society Mountains

Nov 11
     Hard to believe November is 1/3 over. Time really flies down here. I think that is because we are so busy with our flight schedule right now. The weather has been great at the South Pole and McMurdo and we are flying cargo at a very good pace. Not everywhere though. We have a field camp at the West Antarctic Ice Shelf (WAIS) . The weather at WAIS has been terrible and our planes have not been able to get through with the supplies they need. We were able to get 2 flights in with a few people and very little cargo. They do ice core drilling  and their equipment is sitting in our cargo area waiting for good weather. They have plenty of food and fuel but not the rest. Hopefully the weather will change and we can get them caught up.  The upper respiratory "crud" that has been so rampant here is subsiding finally. I only had a mild case and I hope I don't get any more. Here is a photo I shot coming home from the ice runway the other morning. This is as dark as it gets here right now. The sun never goes below the horizon.  Scenes like this are why I come down here.

Nov 4
     For the last 2 weeks I have had technical problems with my web site that kept me from updating. I think I have it fixed now and intend to update every week. The weather has been good and we started getting flights out to the South Pole and to remote field camps. Right now our air fleet consists of the C-17 flying out of New Zealand , 3 C-130's , 2 DC-3 Baslers and 2 Twin Otters. We will be getting additional aircraft over the next 2 weeks . Starting next week we will begin flying up to 7 flights a day to the South Pole. We have lots of cargo to move and the season is short. We had a group of almost 100 Australians here for 2 weeks that we were flying to their base about 900 miles from here. The weather had been so bad there that they were stuck in McMurdo. We finally got rid of them yesterday. It makes the galley less crowded and means  more hot water for us. They were nice people though. The Dr for the Australian base lived just down the hall from me and was very friendly. He will be at Australia's Casey Base for 15 months.  Now that we are flying every day I have settled into my office on the ice run way. It is humble but it is home. It sets on sled runners. It does have heat , power , telephone and internet access.  Pretty amazing considering it sits on 10 ft of sea ice 2 miles from solid ground. As the Air Field Supervisor I am in charge of all cargo and passenger operations. I am assisted by a Movement Control Specialist ( MC1).  He is from Alabama and has worked for the Air Force in Afghanistan . I also have a cargo team of 4 people assigned to the air field. It is their job to do the actual loading and unloading of the aircraft. They rotate every 3 weeks back into town and a new team takes their place.  Here are photos of our planes and of my humble office.

Baslers.JPG
DC-3 Baslers

C130s.JPG
LC-130's flown by the NY Air National Guard

My office is the hut behind the plane
Twinotter.JPG
Twin Otter

hut19.JPG
My Office-Hut 19 on the Sea Ice

office.JPG
Me and the MC1 inside Hut 19



This photo shows the entire night shift of the Antarctic Terminal Operations ( ATO ) piled on and around one of our Cat 950G loaders named Frosty Boy.   It was taken just after one of the big snow storms when the air field was closed and everyone was working in town. The photo includes the cargo teams , load planners , air passenger services and supervisors. Overall it is a pretty fine group albeit a bit scruffy looking right now.

nightshift.jpg
Nightshift

These are pallets of cargo awaiting a flight to the South Pole. Each one weighs between 2000 and 7000 pounds. 

palletline.JPG
South Pole Cargo

This is pallet P001. It is the first pallet of the season built to fly to the South Pole.  Pallets are numbered in order as they are built but  do not fly in that order. Pallet P010 may fly well before P001 due to a higher priority of the cargo.  I will post the last pallet of the season to be built for the pole at the end of the season. I am curious to see how high the number will be.

pallet1.JPG
Pallet P001

Here are 2 Cat tractor chassis waiting for flight to a field camp. Fully assembled each was heavier than the C-130's could carry. They had to be disassembled and will fly in pieces then be reassembled at the field camp. Each chassis will be a full load for the C-130.  Right at 25,000 pounds

catchassis.JPG
Heavy Cargo




Sedit qui timuit ne non succederet    ( Horace)